Story: Manachai Inkaew
Photo: Bundit Pinyowattanacheap

The green and golden rice paddy fields infiltrated every corner of Bali, making me feel stunned by the lack of concrete when I first visited Bali. My personal feeling is one of respect at how strongly the local farmers must have fought against the irresistible surge of modernized tourism, helping to make Bali one of the world’s best ‘alternative holiday’ destinations.

After several visits to this charming place, I discovered Ubud - one of Bali’s districts - where I could observe the richly diverse lifestyles of the local community.

Geographically, Ubud - currently Bali’s main art and culture spot - is situated amongst the rice fields and surrounded by a hilly landscape. With this great combination of characteristics, Ubud is enhanced to being a beautifully fascinating place to visit, encouraging the world’s travellers to slowly reveal its secrets.

As the weather is nice all year round, I woke up in the morning, sunlight pouring in through the window filling me with inspiration to experience as many of Ubud’s charms as possible. Timelessly sipping fresh morning coffee in a nice café that extends out into open rice fields is a moment that those who have been living with stressful issues in their working lives - especially in big cities - should take the time to experience. After a lazy morning coffee, my local friend then took me for a walk along the monkey forest street, where art products are displayed for sale throughout this long stretching street.

Seeing the road sign of Jalan Arjuna, I was told that I could follow it to place myself in the middle of the local village and see how they live their daily lives. I walked along the street for a little while, and then a village was just in front of me. Luckily, after walking to the village, there was one family who is preparing a venue for the next day’s wedding ceremony. I was later invited, which turned out to be a great opportunity to see how local people in this community work together for a big day. They all help, without anyone expecting payment. A kind lady in traditional Balinese dress told me that the villagers are always helping one another, especially during the preceding days leading up to special events in the community. This makes me think of how back in my hometown in the north-eastern part of Thailand, we hardly ever witness anyone offering a helping hand like this in our community in the present day. Money is seemed to be on the mind of those who ‘offer assistance’.

I walked further from the village for a short while. Then, the rice paddy fields began to appear again, as things slowly become more rural. This is a vast land area - where I could only see rice fields going out far beyond my view - comprising of paddies that were a regal golden green – creating a picturesque scene, contrasted with parts that are being ploughed ready for the next plantation. The morning rays of sunshine, bounced off the moving leaves, creating a dazzling sight throughout the fields. How magical it feels here!

Rice plantations in Bali are considered important to local people, as they have to create a large amount of the rice to keep in stock. Then, people are able to concentrate more on their artistic works, as well as their regular cultural practices.  During the cycle of one year, the Balinese will normally grow rice two times, but rotate growing around the areas throughout the year to allow the land to recover. In order to support this amount of farming activity, the irrigating system that has developed in Bali is remarkable.

I continued strolling around the narrow streets used by the local farmers. Noticeably, I found that while strolling along earthen street it was a real pleasure as I could always hear flowing water, either from the natural streams or the irrigation water ways. I have no doubt that the large amount of rice that can be effectively produced by each family is thanks to the fertility of the land and the innovative supporting irrigation systems.

Close to lunch time, a marquee located in the middle of a rice field was within my sight. I have been told that there is an organic restaurant with some of the best and tastiest food in all of Ubud hidden inside. As soon as I walked up its wooden stairs to the open pavilion, I saw that there were some foreign nature lovers sitting and enjoying their meals. While I was savouring each bite of my meal, I really appreciated how the food and beverages were extremely fresh and were served using innovative presentation techniques. Together with the fantastic location, this restaurant is highly recommended as a ‘must do’ when exploring the walking trails of the region.

On that day, the light in the afternoon was still fine and not too bright. Even though the sunlight might be strong during the daytime, the coconut trees provide shade along the walkway and can help to cool you from the midday sun.

For those who are interested in observing local living, they can drop by many small temples and villages along the trails. The ears of the paddy are becoming yellow - meaning that in a few weeks time the harvest season is approaching. Then, after the harvest, the land will be left deserted for couple months before the villagers start to plough and get it ready for the next plantation.

Even though I was walking through the rice fields, art shops were still seen throughout the land, even in the most remote areas. I had a chance to talk to a young villager; he told me that all the beautiful pictures displayed in his shop are his own artistic endeavours. However, later while passing by the paddy field, I saw the same guy working on the land too. I was told that almost all the youngsters in Ubud work in the paddy fields and when they have spare time, they will produce all these art works for both pleasure and extra incomes. Practically, all the youngsters in these villages will go to art schools to study painting, stage performance and other artistic activities. This is why the city of Ubud is full of art.

Historically, there was the arrival of Walter Spies - a German born in Russia – who came to Ubud and taught painting, music and dabbled in dance. Then, in the 1960’s the development of the Young Artists Movement occurred, resulting in many art museums and art based activities that have continued up to the present day.

I walked back to the Jalan Kajeng and continued further out to Jalan Suweta, where the Ubud Palace is right at the front. The Balinese traditional house of Ubud Palace, which is the former residence of the last reigning King of Ubud, is located just next to the traditional art market. Today the palace is occupied by his descendants, and Balinese performances are held in its courtyard frequently for the benefit of tourists.

For me, having a chance to spend a day in this fabulous land and soothe away my stresses with the serene beauty was exactly what I needed. Cosy environments helped to spawn some positive thinking about how these people create such simple but wonderful scenes on earth. It is no wonder that the locals can commune, when they have been living with the value of art all their lives. This makes me aware that sometimes the ideal inspiration is waiting for us just around the corner.

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